Water Filter Diverter Valve

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Saving water in five steps

Saving water in five steps

Appropriate clock / controller management.
Improve system performance.
Spray to drip irrigation conversions.
Redesign of the landscape and plant installation drought tolerant.

Step 1 – Description of the plant / water / soil relationships.

Understanding water moves to pass through and is stored in soils is essential to understand how a plant can access and pull until the moisture in the leaves for hydration and growth. The soil is like a sponge. The higher the sponge, the more water is stored.

For soils in your yard this example is best described as "the most profound soil profile most of the sponge, the more moisture is available for plant roots to pull up on the leaves. "

SOIL PROFILE – The different layers of different types of soil from the surface down.? For this discussion wil l focus on the layers that concern by the growth of plants. These are the layer of straw (this is not technically a layer of soil, but it is important for our discussion), the soil surface, and the area root.

An irrigation system is an imitation of natural rainfall.

We all know that rain is a uniform application of water. Is the same amount in the front yard is that it is in the backyard. A sprinkler system, or a pop-up spray heads used to apply water is the most accurate way to imitate rain. We know this because when we were kids it was fun playing in the sprinklers because we could soak in the sunshine to stay warm. Playing in the rain sometimes was too cold because the sun had disappeared behind the clouds. This is important due to the fact that the sun can work against us when the water by evaporation of moisture before it has the opportunity to enter the soil profile. Let's go into this more in step two.? A sprinkler system is the best type of system is for plant growth, because we know that mimics rainfall more accurately. However, it may be the most inefficient due to the fact that the water starts in the air in the form of droplets that can evaporate due to wind, heat and soil conditions.

Irrigation efficiency – The application of water to landscape with minimal losses to evaporation.

Plant roots are opportunistic.

Grow where conditions are good. The basic needs of plant roots are moisture and oxygen. Plants need oxygen to grow. The oxygen in the atmosphere, soil can penetrate in the upper layers of the soil profile. How deep depends on soil types, textures, and other factors that are not as important as knowing that the roots need oxygen to grow and survive. So if the grass is muddy or makes a soft noise when you walk on it, you can have as much moisture is reduced oxygen and poor root health. Avoid over-saturated soil at all times.

Most of the time we will be talking about grass. Trees and Shrubs are a bit different because they generally have larger, deeper roots due to the fact that they are the largest plants. Plant Size Following is directly related to the size of the plant. Duh! An oak tree or pine have huge roots that go much deeper than your lawn. Point I'm trying to make is that there is no need to give more water to the trees because of their deep taproots that can access groundwater. However, new trees need a little help, because their roots are still in the container or root ball, and will not be able to provide enough water to compensate water loss of leaves or needles. An extra drop system is a good addition to new trees for a few years until they can establish themselves in the landscape. extra irrigation for larger trees that have been in the soil for years is unnecessary and wasteful. Most mature trees have roots that extend twice the width of tree branches. Your trees are probably the ingress of moisture to the lawn irrigation offer anyway. However, trees may benefit from padded area at the base. This gives them a place for moisture and nutrients to take, without having to fill in with grass. This may not be the look that is pleasing to you, but a great way to help trees thrive. We will see later different drip systems and how to use them for different applications and types of plants later in step four.

different soil types will absorb and retain water differently. Soils generally have less water during the fine soils. We many different soil types in our area. You may have fine sediments washed down from the mountains of pebbles or pure stone. Maybe you have both! New homes can have all kinds of soils usually with a thin layer of topsoil for landscape screening applied during installation. Not meant you have to spend much time worrying about your soil type. Just keep this in mind as your sprinkler system runs during the season.

Stallion of the floor (the largest soil particles), the shorter the duration between watering times. If you have very fine, deep, loamy you may be able spend days between waterings. But only if the grass has deep roots. If you have one of those situations with poor soils and boulders with a thin layer of topsoil, then have to work a little harder to train the grass to grow deep roots. The trick is to run the irrigation system for a long time (such After 30 to 40 minutes. per zone) and then stop watering for as long as possible so that the soil can dry. That's right. I said 30-40 minutes per zone. Most people run an area of about 10-15 min. and lose much of that water evaporation. In addition to only end up watering the few inches of soil. Where do you think the roots plants grow if only the top few inches of the soil is wet? You got it, on the surface. And that is the opposite of what we want happen!

Plant roots need drying cycles.

They acclimate and more durable when subjected to periods of drought. Does it rain a sunrise every day for 10-15 minets? If you are a farmer that would be great. The reality is that it rains for hours and then it does not rain for days or even weeks. Plants have evolved over time to address this growing when soil moisture is high and hardening during dry periods to wait for the next rainy season. Remember we want to imitate mature.

There is another benefit to the drying cycles. Remember that the roots are opportunistic. As the soil dries on the surface dries and then dried in the background. The roots on the surface and continue to grow as the soil dries. The roots are deeper than continue to grow due to moisture in the upper deep soil allows growth. The roots will also grow deeper through multiple drying cycles. The result is a root system deeper. Plants do not have minds. They do not think about these things. React to their environment by default. It's our job to manipulate this environment to encourage habits plant. As you can see that it can encourage bad habits and if we do not take appropriate action.

In step 2 we will look at your irrigation system and how to use perform these procedures and better mimic natural rainfall, with minimal evaporation losses. The trick is to realize that the risk for most of the time and can have the confidence to apply the water for half an hour instead of 10 minutes.

For years I worked in the interior of the facility PlantScape and maintenance of large interior gardens in malls, hospitals and restaurants. When people asked me to see their plants and tell what was wrong it would usually be irrigation is a simple solution with more water, less frequently. This fear of over-watering is well founded. However, we have to overcome that fear and let the plants grow naturally.

CONCLUSION – The floor must be completely saturated without mud and then allowed to dry as much as possible without wilting of the plants to encourage deep root growth.

STEP 2 – Watch appropriate / management controller.

Now we know what the roots need to grow, we need to know how to run our irrigation systems to provide adequate moisture levels. The most important part of your irrigation system is the clock or controller. If you have an older system is very important to think about replacing your driver. If the system is very old, you may want to replace the heads and valve as well. Or you may want to simply replace the entire thing. Make a few different landscape or irrigation contractor for an evaluation of your system to see if you need upgrades or replacement. Most systems have a life fifteen years.

Many people can adjust the treatment time in the spring and then walk the rest of the season. I call this the effect RONCO. "Set It and forget it! "This is wrong for irrigation. Nature changes during the season. As it should! I tell people to change their irrigation cycles minimum three times per season. Here and in most of the country a period of wet spring followed by hot summer period may have thunderstorms or it can be very dry and in our region. Then there is a period of decline that is cooler and wetter in some areas as well. Can you see a trend? In our area can be very wet spring. In fact, you may be able to start the system and then not work for weeks. Most of the time you want to keep moisture levels to allow the grass and the largest plants out of dormancy before the cycle begins hot and dry summer. The system must also be reviewed once a month to make sure it works properly. We will see this more in step three.

Irrigation controllers have reached a level of sophistication equipment that allows the user to design many different management programs to maintain soil moisture. For our analysis we focus on just a few.

Cycle and soak method of irrigation – This is when you run a zone of two or more short periods instead of a continuous cycle length.

The temporary adjustment function its controller – This is a feature of most drivers irrigation equipment that lets you keep the same schedule and reduce the total amount of water applied as a percentage. Rainbird The company has developed a wonderful set of online tutorials to help you learn how to use the Rainbird controller. http:/www.rainbird.com

IRRIGATION AREA – Any section or part of an irrigation system that runs at a given time.

Irrigation water penetration times of equality.

Why cycle and soak? The decision to use a cycle and soak method is determined by the type of soil you have in your yard and how dry the soil is a start of an irrigation cycle. Runoff water from the soil surface should be avoided. If the soil can absorb only a curtain amount of water at a time then you can have water running on sidewalks or down the drain if your system is applying water faster than the soil can absorb. Then change the cycle and soak. Run Area ten minutes. the running again for fifteen more on the same night. This allows the soil to be charged with a little water so it will be able to absorb later. This method is crucial for areas where 30 or even 45 minutes of run time needed.

Seasonal adjustment is a nice feature, allowing you to change the amount of water without having to change all the time and possibly make a mistake with the driver. Use this feature sparingly. It would be better to keep the amount of water per cycle of the same and increase the time between watering cycles.

The floor will not change so the amount of water applied must not change. Change the duration between the risk of reacting to weather conditions.

Remember, your soil profile and texture (if either course) will not change what the amount of water You can apply at any time does not change. How will the amount of water in the soil can handle? That question can be answered only through the establishment of run time, implementation of the system and physically check the soil moisture levels at different depths. This can be done by digging a hole and feeling soil, or using a soil probe. With a shovel in the first place will help you determine the depth of the root zone. There is no use in irrigation by a foot and a half if your area the root is only eight inches deep.

The point is that research is usually needed to know how the soil and roots are reacting to run times and schedules. No "Set It and forget it!"

University research shows that up to seventy-five percent of the water irrigation is lost by evaporation when the system is running hot wind cycle, during the day. That is 75%! ALWAYS WATER IN THE NIGHT. If your system is too large to run all areas in one night then split into different nights and keep trying to get those roots to grow.

Researchers complex graphics used as irrigation monograph below to determine the evaporation rates for irrigation systems. We will avoid lengthy academic discussions on the use of these graphics. We'll see how to show the loss of irrigation water during the day as he gets at night. Using the nomogram below we can determine that with our low humidity and strong winds are common in the summer the amount of water losses during the day are about 20%. However, the implementation of watering at night with reduced wind speeds and temperatures, the losses are reduced to less than 5%.

That becomes more important when we look at the amount of water in gallons that are used when running a system for a day or biking.

See an average irrigation system.

IRRIGATION SYSTEM – 50 sprayers 2 'gallons per minute (GPM).
50 x 2 = 100 GPM GPM total system use (in gallons).

The system runs once day for 20 minutes per zone
100 GPM x 20 minutes per day = 2000 gallons per day.

The system operates with a total of 5 months during the summer season.
2000 gallons per day x 150 days per season = 300,000 gallons per season.

WITH 20% OF IRRIGATION lossed to evaporation TO RUN IN THE SAME DAY OF 60,000 GALLONS OF WATER AQUIFER BY OUR SYSTEM lossed PER YEAR!

In your mind THIS!

A pool that measures 30 feet wide by 50 feet long with an average depth of 5 feet and has about 56,000 gallons of water.

A small landscape can lose enough water to fill a swimming pool. It is important to relate loss water to the elements of everyday life so that we become more aware of how careful we must be with irrigation management.

The first five to ten minute irrigation cycle can be stolen from the earth as water covers and saturate the leaves and thatch layer. So if irrigation for ten minutes, your roots are receiving little or no water.

It is important to note that these figures are intended to make someone feel bad or be exposed to as part of the problem. Everyone wants to right. However, many of us do not know where to start. The first way to start being more responsible is to be more aware. It is important to match these facts and figures to the elements than the average person can understand

CONCLUSION – The irrigation controller is a tool to manipulate soil moisture levels in soil to grow deep roots.

Step 3 – Improving System Performance

Improve system performance is a process to ensure that the irrigation water evenly distributed throughout the landscape. The technical term is the uniformity of distribution. Factors that may lead to bad outcomes are:

MAINTENANCE ISSUES
– Blocked nozzles
– Old or damaged nozzles
– Different types of heads in the same area

DESIGN TOPICS
– Light Duty System
– Leaks in the pipes and valves.
– Incorrect separation of the heads.

How do you typically set nasty dry spots that occur on the lawn each summer?

Add more time to the area!

That's like trying to improve gas mileage by installing a bigger engine in your car. As we learned earlier the depth of the roots have much to do with keeping the grass healthy. Application Even water is another major problem. Remember, it mimics the natural rainfall. Before the roots have the opportunity to grow need to be sure that all the roots are receiving the same amount of moisture for each irrigation cycle.

This is one aspect of this discussion, I recommend paying for good help. Investigate the type of heads are, the selection and purchase of nozzles, and its installation can be tedious and slow. There are many technical and special tools are needed to do the job.

The distinction between maintenance and design issues reflects how involved and expensive process can possibly be.

Changing nozzles can be done by the homeowner with a little homework and a half day spent on the patio. Design problems may need to work more extensive. Many contractors will inspect the system for free and suggest a solution. I recommend that at least three different companies to see the system and compare each solution to be sure you are getting only what you need.

CONCLUSION – Most irrigation repairs can be done easily. But do not be afraid to invest in good professional help.

Step 4 – Spray to drip Conversions

Most of this discussion has focused on the grass. Céspedes grow best aerial spray irrigation, which may be the most inefficient. Trees and shrubs grow well with drip tube devices in a single issuer. Most use systems of broadcasters around the foundation of the house to apply water to shrubs and flowers. Spray these areas can become runny and save thousands of gallons water. A product that the company offers Rainbird allows you to use existing spray heads to deliver water to a drip system. We will discuss how to convert a spray zone drops of planting beds have 20 to 30 trees and shrubs planted throughout.

First

Find all broadcasters in the area to be converted. Just turn the area and mark with a flag of irrigation under the store where purchased parts drip. They are usually free.

A small part of the heads of each area will become the chief source of fresh water drip.

try to keep your head to turn about 50 feet away. this approach to use existing underground piping in place and keep costs down conversion.

Second

Purchase and install special tapas tip a cap of the spray head so that water can not leave.

This will divert water to the heads selected in step one.

Next, let to install another device to join the parts with the trickle of new broadcasters of age (PA-80).

at this point the spray heads covered to be not only part of the pipe.

Be sure to rinse the system before inserting the card again to remove the dirt in the system.

Blockages can cause many problems as holes in drip systems are so small.

The PA-80 is a Rainbird product that will allow direct connection of the drip tube 1 / 2 inch head of age.

in the next step is to connect the manifold new (XBS – 100) to the old head. indeed, we are replacing the underground system of pipes with a smaller pipe at the top of the earth.

This will make the process much easier the excavation of new trenches. at the end of the conversion which can put a new layer of mulch and the cover of the new pipeline.

Third

before installing the AP-80 to the top of the spray heads to be used for the drip again, be sure to remove the nozzle first. Once this is to design installed drip all other devices can be attached to 1 / 2 inch distribution pipe that is attached to this device. This is the basis for conversion. The most important thing is that you can do on the ground with ease.

The 2.1-inch rainbirtd mdcf50fpt adapters allow the connection of the distribution pipe.

the XBS – 100 is the new pipeline to supply water to individual drip devices.

Fourth

after using a half inches to install adapters 1 / 2 inches distribution XBS-100 pipe, construct a loop of pipe to supply more water to all trees and shrubs in the bed planting.

Fifth

Attach the "Modules pressure compensation" in exchange for 2.1-inch pipe that provides water XBS along bed for the pipe 1 / 4 inch that delivers water to the specific plant (s).

Most sprinkler systems have pressures too high for Drip systems require large pressure-reducing valve face.

a valve in-line pressure reduction is also recommended.

Sixth

From the 1 / 4 inch pipe can be connected to all different issuers.

with this method, the system can be expanded as new plant materials are added. of course, his will a maximum number of transmitters that can be added until the area is low – power, all issuers of bad operation.

Filtration is very important. Due to the small holes used to deliver water, even small amounts of dust and dirt that clog issuers. When converting a droplet spray zone always install a filter on the valve. his irrigation parts store can recommend a model that works for your systems and applications.

You may also want to bury the diffusers that supply the area's newest drip into the soil. Remember these are 'pop-up' broadcasters to raise the 1 / 2 inch pipe rising from the land when pressure 'appears' up.

CONCLUSION – you can save thousands of gallons per month by converting drip sprinkler zones for areas of trees and shrubs.

Step 5 – Re-designing your landscape to install tolerant plants to drought.

The fifth step requires a greater commitment than most, but the rewards are spectacular. Many people believe the myth that tolerance to drought zeriscape gardens have to be sage and wildflowers. Biome Design Services has pioneered the concept of hybrid landscape. This is the combination of native plant materials, and exotic regional balance to reduce overall water requirements without sacrificing the traditional look.

Native plants – plants and trees that grow naturally in our area, and southern and central Idaho. Example – pine and aspen.
Regional Plant – Plants and trees growing in the wider region or habitat, as the Rocky Mountains. Example – Colorado blue spruce.

Exotic plants – plants and trees that grow in our area or region, or dependent on man for their culture and survival. Example – Kentucky bluegrass, annual flowers.

For most people pulling all their plants and replanting their chair is not possible.

But as we have seen our gardens are the largest source of losses water from our aquifers to the atmosphere. So if we change over to drip into the planting beds and convert our native grass lawn and regional the savings can be enormous.

For this discussion we will learn how an average homeowner can switch from standard native grass lawn grass sod minimal cost of disruption of their lives. It is important to consider how a grass seed germinates and you need to survive and settle. The three needs listed below basic.

Sunlight – As the seed germinates the first blade of grass has to reach the sun for photosynthesis to start give the energy needed to grow deep roots that we have been talking about the steps above.

Moisture – For obvious reasons. In the early stages of root growth of seedlings of the first is very small so the frequency of irrigation should be very brief.

Loose Soil – The need for new plants soft soils to quickly penetrate and establish quickly.

Later we will learn how to provide these parameters for a new lawn planted for rapid growth and establishment.

what to plant instead of lawn? Our area is a good region to use the grass family fescue.

His many types of fescue used in gardening and golf. Because of our high-rise that will focus on three types of fescue. See also Buffalo grass too but has limited use here due to cold winters.

Idaho fescue – Festuca idahoensis

Born in the western United Joined up in Canada. That has made fine-textured leaves and bluish green. This herb can handle extreme drought. I planted this grass in native designs I've done in the past. I saw this species is a month without water in the early summer, without losing its color. In fact, when irrigation was the turn of greened even more in a few days and it looked good.

It also grows too slowly. So we have to cut much less. In fact, one of my clients mowing your yard once a season. To most people with a frequency of once a month would be fine. Many people believe that this herb feel lumps under your feet and not dare to plant a lawn. This seed must be planted a double rate for a bluegrass lawn. Individual plants grow as clusters are so close together that the package is going. In fact, the grass is so tight that few weeds can grow.

One drawback is that this variety is not grown extensively for large quantities can be difficult to find. Would good to mix this herb with others, if enough can not be found.

Sheep fescue – Festuca ovina

A native of Europe and Central Asia. This grass is very similar to Idaho fescue on growth habits and needs. It is also very drought tolerant with very slow growth. You also need to be planted rates heavier than normal. However, once it is set to be replanted, if the seed heads are left until the end of the season.

I've looked at if this herb has become invasive in other areas. It is very important to ensure that this species does not harm native plants. I have not found any evidence this is the case.

This seed is produced in much larger quantities it would be easier to buy. It benefits from water conservation and reduction of harvest becomes an ideal complement to a hybrid landscape.

Creeping Red Fescue – Festuca rubra

There are many varieties of red fescue in the market. Has been used in traditional seed mixtures for their ability to grow in the shade. It is not as tolerant to drought, pastures above may be a good option for areas their creeping habit shade fescue help others to form a thick sod.

This herb is used in the seeds of many mixtures of low maintenance berms in our area.

Buffalo – Buchloe dactyloides

As its name implies, this herb was discovered in the plains states and has evolved bison here in the United States. It has excellent drought tolerance and growth habit that creates a thick peat.

Its major drawback is that brown leaves in the fall and remain until spring brown. Most of our area is pretty cool so this herb may be difficult to settle. I recommend using the south of Hailey. However, there is a buffalo grass in the north of Ketchum Heatherlands. It can be done but with a little extra effort.

Most native grasses in my portfolio Festuca ovina mainly used because of the availability and cost. I found it quickly fills and is a lawn well when set correctly. In the following sections we will review how the grass can turn a weekend of work, a tiller rental, seeds and fertilizers.

Convert your lawn is easier than you think. Does not require removal of large trucks old lawn or importation of new soil.

This method will give the new seed of the three requirements discussed above in step. Kill the old lawn, plow land and planting and establishment of the new seeds are the basic steps of this process.

The goal is to do this without carrying materials to the landfill and the addition our waste load.

In our area, hydroseeding is the preferred method of applying seed to the lawn areas and natural grass. Let hydroseeding and how it works. See what we can recreate those aspects of hydrodeed with grass that exist in our backyards.

Hydroseeding is the process of spraying a mixture of seeds, fertilizer, mulch and paper products named has been processed to look and feel like a loose fiber. These ingredients are mixed in a special machine an outbreak of a hose on the ground. What this does is give the seedlings when they germinate an environment that has sufficient moisture to allow the roots of seedlings to penetrate the soil.

As we learned earlier seedlings need three things: sunlight, moisture and loose soils. Hydroseeding provides these needs with the mulch. It holds water for new roots. It is very loose and allow the new grass leaves and roots to reach the sun and the soil in the hydroseeding mixture.

Remains crucial to loosen the soil under the hydroseeding so the new grass can send roots deep in the ground. Note that step two?

We can mimic these aspects of hydroseeding with the materials at hand if we do all the work ourselves. However, if you want to apply can be hydroseeding. Just make sure that even the old dead grass on the floor completely. The application of hydroseeding grass on top of old going to create a layer of air which will make the new seedling to die and not produce the lawn you want. Let's look more into this later.

Now we will learn the steps for the conversion of grass.

STEP ONE – Apply a herbicide to kill existing turf grass and give way to new turf. Kill the old grass is crucial because the old grass blades shade the soil and maintain the new grass blades reach the sun. You can do it yourself or hire a professional for this step.

STEP TWO – after the old grass died using a rototiller to till the dead grass on top 4 "of soil for new seedlings may reach the ground quickly.

CAUTION! Be sure NOT TO VERY DEEP. That could cut the irrigation lines. ALL YOU NEED IS TO MAKE THE OLD GRASS is mixed with the existing soil.

In the second step can proceed two directions. If you would like to have your new lawn rototiller hydroseeded then required. If you want to do all the work yourself then leave the dead grass in place. The dead grass blades provide benefits similar to those of mulch. Disseminate the new grass seed by hand or with a fertilizer spreader. I recommend using a diffuser in a more uniform appearance.

Seed contact with the ground is most important to achieve the time to apply the seed. When the seed is laid down their should be some kind of action for individual seeds down the old dead grass and in contact with the ground. This can be done with a leaf rake or dragging a 4 "by 4" section of barbed wire. I recommend the rototiller and hydroseeding, but this method work with good results.

Seed contact with the ground is most important to achieve the implementation of seed.

Seeding rates are important when using these bunch grasses. A lower rates of the clusters can create a bumpy to walk on the grass. applies traditional seeds at a rate of 4 pounds per 1000 square meters. These herbs should be applied at 8 pounds per 1,000 square feet.

Once the seed is applied irrigation is very important. For most situations it is necessary to run the irrigation of lawn areas three to five times a day. The reason is that in our climate in the upper half inch soil dries within hours. If the first root seedlings is only a quarter of an inch long that we have to keep that half-inch of wet land or mulch at all times. Below is a typical irrigation schedule seeds freshly applied.

5:00 a.m. 15 minutes – This is the wet area for the next day.

10 a.m. 15 minutes – this cycle can be eliminated for the first time as the grass grows.

14:00 20 minutes – the longest term is due to the higher temperatures and more wind. This cycle should be maintained longer due to extreme stress at this time of day.

19:00 15 minutes – This is collect soil moisture of the night. Second cycle may be to remove as the grass is established.

The trick is to monitor the herbs as you get to see the depth of the roots are penetrating. Then, changes to irrigation can be done. The deeper the roots the less water we must apply. This process can take a month or more. We want to slowly remove the lawn in front of the constant watering to encourage deep root growth that we have learned in steps above.

Fertilization is also important. In the first year, heavy fertilization program will make the grass grow quickly and reduce weed infestation. It will also help the grass roots grow faster and you can reduce watering faster. When choosing a credit for a with a balanced ratio of nutrients. You can find the relationship of three numbers on the bag.

Use an application when you apply the seed, and about two months later. After the first growing season additional fertilizer will be less important. Once the grass is established and had formed thick turf course, will keep out most weeds.

CONCLUSION – It is important to note that water conservation and reduction of greenhouse gases is a compromise that forces us to think outside the box. It also forces us to look at the big picture. For example we will use a kind of grass from another region in order to save water. As our area becomes more developed and we have to share diminishing resources, it is important to change our mentality and find ways to save our resources.

About the Author

SYNOPSIS:Over 20 years diversified experience in multiple facets of the landscape industry emphasizing design and construction. We educate and demonstrate that sustainable landscaping can be beautiful by combining proven techniques with innovative concepts to create award winning landscapes that require less energy and natural resources to build and maintain.

Attaching Standard Female Countertop Water Filter Diverter Valve with Male Adaptor